Measure foe laying off dress ohaets



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S MEASURE FOR LAYING OFF DRESS GHARTS.

No. 514,063. Patented Feb. 6, L894.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

'L. A GALL. MEASURE FOR LAYING OFF DRESS GHARTS.

Patented Feb. 6, 1894.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

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MEASURE FOR LAYING OPE DRESS CHARTS.

Patented Feb. 6, 1894.

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'mree STATES LIBBIE ANN CALL, OF OSHKOSH, WISCONSIN.

MEASURE FOR LAYING OFF DRESS-CHARTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Iletters Patent No. 514,063, datedFebruary 6, 1894. Application filed May 19 1893. Serial No. 474,828. (Nomodel.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, LIBBIE ANN CALL, acitizen of the United States,residing at Oshkosh, in the county of Winnebago and State of Wisconsin,have invented a new and useful Measure for Laying OE Dress-Charts, ofwhich the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in measures for laying off dresscharts, and consistsin a certain novel construction and combination ofparts which will appear in the following description, and the novelfeatures thereof being particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawingsF igure 1 is a view of the main dress chart. Fig. 2 is aview of a supplement to the main dress chart. Fig. 3 is a View of aportion of a dress-waist pattern laid off by means of my improved chart.

Similar letters and numerals of reference indicate corresponding partsin all the figures of the drawings.

Referring to Fig. 1, it will be seen that my improved chart issubstantially angular in' shape and is provided with a long arm 1 anda-short arm 2, the outer edges of which are disposed at a right angle toeach other. The long arm increases in width from a point 3 toward itsextremity 4., and from said point 3 the edge is curved to a point 5which is located at about the center of the short arm. From the point 5to the point 6 the edge is provided with a concaved curve which forms acontinuation of the gradual curve 35, and from the point 6 the edge isconvexly curved to the outer end 7 of the short arm, thus forming a lobe8.

The surface of the chart is provided with graduations and markingsindicating various proportionate measurements to be used in a mannerhereinafter explained, the numerals which are employed to designate suchproportions being arranged in columns parallel with the edges of thearms. For instance, the short arm is provided with six contiguous 7parallel columns which, for convenience in the after description of theoperation of the device, I will term the first, second, third, fourth,850., columns. This is true also of the longer arm, and arrangedcontiguous to the inner or sixth column upon each arm 1s an inch rule 10to be employed in various ways in connection with laying ofi a pattern.side of and adjacent to the said inch rules the surface of the square isprovided with various shorter scales, those adjacent to the inner edgeof the longer arm being designed for use in laying off the sleeves ofgarments, as indicated by the markings Elbow for sizes below at 11, 18length at 12, Childs elbow at 13, Shoulder and sleeve arrow 14:, &c.,all

of which are arranged in connection with arrows indicating a particularpoint upon the inner edge of the arm.. The shorter arm is similarlyprovided, adjacent to its inner edge, with a series of arrows markedNeck at 15, Line B at 16, Ohilds armseye and necks to sizes 28 at 17;and farther back from the edge a chest scale 18, &c. Upon the curve 35,of the longer arm, is arranged a series of arrows referring to hipmeasurements or indicating the part of the scale to apply to that partof the pattern and marked Hip spring 2% and 2%, Hip 3 and 4 forms, 2 and1%, Hip &c.

. Referring to the columns of measurements upon the short arm of thesquare adjacent to the outer edge, the reference Front/neck 19 is foundin the first column to distinguish or identify the contiguous series ofmeasurements in the second column, and at an intermediatepoint of saidfirst column is found One dart at bust 20 in connection with themeasurements 4.0, 1%, 36, and 33. On oppo site side of square, are foundscales for two darts. In the second column and removed from the frontneck measurements above referred to are found the bust measurementsranging from 20 to 50, and in the fourth column is found a series ofmeasurements referring to the neck back and indicated by Neck B 21. Inthe fifth and sixth columns are found measurements for laying ofi theside body and underarm portions, of a 2 form pattern, and indicated bythe markings S. B. 2 F. and U. d. 2 F. as shown at 22.

Upon the long arm of the square in the first column and commencingadjacent to the angle are found dart measurements indicated by themarking 2 darts at waist at 23 and successively, measurements indicatedby the markings front at waist 24, Under arm 2 F. at waist 25, Side body2 F. at waist 26, and Back 2 F. at waist 27. In the second column arefound measurements which are designated by the markings Under arm fromline A 28, (such letter A referring to a line upon the pattern whichwill be explained hereinafter.) In the third column are found Front neck29, 3 F front at 30, First side body 31 measurements, 850.; in thefourth column are found Ohilds shoulder 32, Shoulder and side body 33,and other references; in the fifth column are found Shout der and sidebody 34 measurements; and in the sixth column are found measurements forplacing darts and for laying off t form patterns. The markings upon thesleeve scales which, as above described, are arranged adjaeent to theinner or curved edge of the longer arm of the square, are clearly shownin the drawings and will be understood Without special designation.

The supplementary chart, which I have shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings,is provided with measurements which are mainly identical with those uponthe chart shown in Fig. 1, the shape of the same being as follows: 9 isa straight side edge intersected at a right angle by the end edge 10,and 11 is a convexly curved side edge which leaves the end 10 at anobtuse angle and meets the straight side edge 9 at the opposite end ofthe chart in an acute angle. The supplementary chart is also providedwith an inch rule and the various other requisites of a chart of thiskind, but it isnot provided with a lobe for laying 01f the neck,armseye, &c., with which the extremity of the short arm of the mainchart is provided. This supplementary chart is designed to be used underconditions in which it would be inconvenient to carry the larger chart.

In laying 0d a dress pattern the bust measure controls the othermeasurements with the exception of the length of waist,the dart andfront length, the waist and over shoulder measure, and, therefore, afterdetermining the bust measure it will be found, as hereinafter fullyexplained, that the neck, side body, and various other measurements areindicated upon the chart, by a numeral corresponding with said bustmeasure, thus simplifying the use of the chart.

In order that the manner of laying off the dress pat-tern may be fullyunderstood, the various measurements being known, the square is laid onthe cloth or lining leaving a margin for hem in front and at top, and alineA is drawn the length of the short arm of the square. Upon this lineis indicated a point corresponding with the given bust measure which isfound in the second column upon said short arm, such measurement beingin the next scale and being indicated upon the pattern in Fig. 3 by aletter a. Now draw line B the length of the long arm of the square andindicating thereon a neck measurement corresponding with the bust sizejust laid oif in the third space and also a corresponding number in thefifth space to show the position of the line C. The various other pointsand lines, from D to N, inclusive, may be found and laid off in asimilar manner, but a detail description thereof will not be necessaryherein.

It will be understood that an important feature of my invention consistsin the rounded lobe with which the short arm of the square is provided,the edge of such lobe being rounded or curved as to enable the neck andarmseye to be described with facility.

Having described my invention, what I claim is- 1. The herein describeddress chart, having angular-1y disposed arms, one of which is providedwith a rounded lobe 8 having the convex curve 5, 6, 7 designed forlaying off the neck, armseye, &c., substantially as specified.

2. The herein described dress chart,having angularly disposed arms whoseouter edges are at a right angle to each other, and Whose inner edgesare curved, as shown at 4, 3, 5, 6, 7, substantially as specified.

3. The herein described chart or form, having angularly disposed armsprovided with proportionate scales relative to given bustmeasurements,such scales being arranged in columns parallel with theedges of the arms,

the inner sides of the arm being provided with a curved edge 4, 3, 5,and a rounded lobe 8, substantially as specified.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own I have hereto affixedmy signature in the presence of two witnesses.

LIBBIE ANN CALL.

Witnesses:

ANNA M WATSON, M. O. PHILLIPS.

